Through steep trails, unpredictable skies, and midnight climbs, I found something I didn’t even know I was looking for.
1. The Call of the Mountains
I didn’t plan it on a spreadsheet. Kedarnath called to me in whispers.
The stories, the chants, the power of Shiva, and the yearning for peace—somehow it all collided in May 2022. I said yes to the journey, not because I was ready, but because I felt chosen. As they say—jab bulawa aata hai, tab hi yatra hoti hai.
We started our trip at midnight from Delhi in a tempo traveller. By morning, I woke up to green hills and fresh air.
Our breakfast break was no ordinary stop—it was at Devprayag, the sacred sangam of the Bhagirathi and Alaknanda rivers, where the holy Ganga officially begins. The view, the energy—it felt like a sign.
By evening, we reached Sonprayag, checked into our stay, had a warm dinner, and tried to rest—tomorrow was the real test.
I’d been walking 1–2 km daily before the trip, just to prep my body. I bought good trekking shoes (non-negotiable for the rocky, slippery terrain) and packed a raincoat, because Kedarnath’s weather has its own mood swings.
Most importantly, I went with an all-women group. Strangers at first, but by the end, it felt like a sisterhood.
Before you even set foot on the trail, make sure you’ve completed the mandatory Yatra registration.
You can do this online at the official Uttarakhand tourism portal:
🔗 https://uttarakhandtourism.gov.in/destination/kedarnath
We planned to start by 3 AM to beat the rush, but due to traffic at Gaurikund, we began trekking at 12:30 PM—way too late. If you’re reading this, start no later than 6 AM, so you can reach before dark and attend the evening aarti.
The terrain was moderate to difficult, especially after Rambada. The skies changed every few minutes—sunny one turn, pouring the next.
There were stalls with lime juice, cucumbers, and hot parathas to keep you going. And kind strangers. Lots of them.
Carry snacks like protein bars or dry fruits, and keep your stomach light. This is not the time for a heavy breakfast.
About 2–3 km before the top, I hit my wall. It was dark, around 11:30 PM. I was exhausted, almost ready to stop. But something—faith, energy, Shiva—kept me going.
At 2:30 AM, I reached Kedarnath.
The moonlight hit the snow-capped peaks. The temple glowed like it was waiting just for us.
I stood there, silent. Empty in the best way. The stress, the fatigue, the chatter—all gone. Just peace.
We cried. We hugged. We finally understood why people call this a “calling.”
You can rent camps for ₹800–₹1200 per person (shared basis). Basic but comfortable.
If you reach in time, attend the 7 PM aarti—it’s magical.
The next morning, walk 3 km to Bhairavnath Temple, the guardian of Kedarnath. As the locals say, your yatra isn’t complete without visiting him.
10. The Descent: Easier But Still Wild
Descending was faster but came with its own drama—rain and hailstorms. The mountains never go easy on you, and that’s the point.
We came down soaked, chilled, but deeply grateful.
Interdum et malesuada fames
